Draping Fabric On The Stand

One more nice way of how to get ideas straight onto the stand - draping the fabric, pinning it on the stand and getting the ideas which later on you can transfer to the final piece of work and prepare the patterns. Here are some of my ideas.

Modelling On The Stand

This technique of designing clothes are much quicker than the one wrapping a stand into paper and saller-taping it. You simply pin the fabric straight onto the stand and cut the pattern you think you like or have it in your mind or into a sketch. Pin the patterns together one by one, have a look if it shapes the body.  Also make sure the grane line of the fabric goes along the body.
Here you can see step by step how to do it and some of further design development.

Origami Inspired Fashion

Origami is the kind of the art about folding any type of materials creating a sculptural designs. Famous fashion designers create their collections inspired by origami art. Andre Lima is one of them who presents the stunning dresses at the Sao Paulo Fashion Week.

Designs Using The Pleated Fabric

These are my designs ideas made using one piece of the pleated fabric. You can see in how many ways it could be played: dresses, skirts, sleeves, tops, neck decorations. I found out that the best fabric to be used for the pleating is organza because it stands out really nicely and does not loose the shape of pleats.

Pleating The Fabric

It is such a meticulous hand-work! For sure it takes some time if you want to get a really fabulous pattern. The first step of pleating is to draft the cartridge sheet of paper. Then you can start creating the pattern just folding and following the drafts you did. It is not a hard work to do just needs some patience! As you need two the same pattern pleated pieces of the paper in which between place the fabric and steam it very well. And here you get the beautiful piece of pleated fabric!

Some more of amazing pleated fabric examples shown by Terry Weinart of Ciment Pleaters

Richard Sweeney - inspired by paper pleating creates unique models of sculptures. 

The Further Development of the Skirt Design

Here is the little sketch how a new idea of a skirt design was being developed. First - creating the design lines, then adding the volume to some pieces of the patterns and finally - the pleating.

Having the skirt made. During the process was changed the skirt waist into the high and gave even more volume to the ham.

Experimenting TR in the skirt design

One more little example of how to do TR designing a skirt.
Again I re-drew the basic pattern of the skirt (back and front) into two ways. First one is when you want to get the shape of 'pencil' and the second one - shape of a bell.

Here I tried to develop into the skirt of 'bell' shape. Having all darts taken in I created the design lines (in red mark). 

Having the pieces cut out I tried to increase the development into the pieces A and C. As you see I gave more volume and got absolutely new patterns. 

BALLGOWNS: British Glamour since 1950

It is such a beautiful exhibition at Victoria and Albert's Museum in London. There are featured more than sixty designs for social events such as private parties, royal balls, state occasions and opening nights.



1. Julien Macdonald 1996 viscose and lurex. 2. Zandra Rhodes autumn/winter 1981 silk, polyester, lame and tulle. This dress consists of a bustier jacket, double layer skirt and a belted apron which forms two fluted gold hip-panels either side of the skirt. 3. Bellville Sassoon Lorcan Mullaney 1996 silk chiffon and lame.

1. John Cavanagh 1965 organza, satin and net. 2. Franka (Baroness Steal von Holstein) 1996 silk satin and lace with sequins, pastes an beading. 3. Victor Stiebel 1959 satin, tulle and organza. Worn by Muriel Campbell for the 1960 ball in honour of Princess Margaret's wedding.

1. Giles Diacon spring/summer 2007 silk. 2. Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2011 feathers. Daphne Guinness chose this dress to wear to the Costume Institute Ball at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NEw York in May 2011. 3. Gareth Pugh 2011 silvered leather made specially for V&A.

In my personal view, this exhibition is a great way to see how Biritain's fashion designers are creative for a glamour women's look. I would say they use a rich combination of traditional craft to make a media splash.

The Further Development of the Top Piece

Using the same design lines of the paper top modelling here is the already made top using calico fabric and pleating technique added to make a 3D square effect on one side.

The other design using same design lines. The shape of the neck and pleating parts are changed also added the technique of giving the volume to the piece 'C' .